Archives for ph fish category
Posted on Oct 09, 2008 under ph fish |
Fish in the OPEN BOTTOM aquarium includes BARBS and DANIOS
These two species of freshwater fish are popular choice for community aquariums because they are inexpensive, easy to keep and compatible with many other species. They are also relatively hardy, and are able to survive in most types of water system.
CHARACTERISTICS
These fish have elongated bodies and are sometimes mistaken for characins, which belong to the tetra family. The differentiating feature in characins is an extra fin.
Many species of barbs and danios are shoaling fish, so you should keep them in groups comprising at least six fish.
Barbs and danios can co-habit amicably with any fish of the same size and temperament. However, some species of barb are know to nip the long, flowing fins of angelfish and guppies. So it is best to check that that particular species of barb you want is compatible with your other fish before procuring any.
HOW TO TAKE CARE
These fish prefer neutral to slightly acidic water (preferably ph around 6.5). They do best in darker, densely planted settings with sufficient open space for them to swim.
Food includes flakes, small pallets and live food. Fresh vegetables like lettuces and zucchini can be another choice.
BREEDING BARBS and DANIOS
Caring for barbs and danios is easy but breeding them is more challenging. If you want to induce them to breed, it is best to set up a special tank with soft, slightly ph-acidic water. Water changes and lowering the depth of the water seem to trigger their breeding instincts.
Bards and danios are egg layers, and do not tend to their hatchings. They may also eat any eggs they find. Therefore the breeding tank should have many bushy plants, rocks or driftwood, to provide the fish with good hiding places for their eggs. Once they have laid their eggs, the parent fish can be transferred back into the community aquarium.
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Technorati Tags: fish, tank
Posted on Sep 11, 2008 under ph fish |
We changed the tank water last night used a tablet Jungle correct PH but did disolve it in water.Fish sitting on bottom in corner of tank like he is stunned and not eating. We have changed the tank water this am , when condition of fish was discovered, with spring water not else has been added to the water any suggestions where to go from here ?
33% water change with dechlorinated water, and add Stress Coat. Don't feed for the rest of the day, and perhaps turn off the light earlier tonight.
Is the tank cycled? What is your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings?
The fish may just be stunned by the sudden pH change, or it could be a larger problem with your tank parameters.
It's advised that you don't use chemical ways to change your pH. If your water is hard, the pH will just bounce back and stress the fish a lot. High pH is better than fluctuating pH, just like almost every other variable when dealing with your tank.
Posted on Sep 11, 2008 under ph fish |
Spotted Arowanas
May 1, 2007
There are a few types of Spotted Arowanas that are originally from Australia (eg. Australian Gold, Aus-Pearl Arowana, Northern or Southern Barrumundi). Australian Arowanas have seven layers of scales on each side compared to five of the Asian Arowanas. The Leichardti has spots on each scale and fins hence the common name, Spotted Arowana. The Jardini (Pearl Arowana) on the other hand is often passed off as an Asian Arowana since little difference may be seen at their early stages (between 0-8 months).
These types of Arowanas are known to be the most aggressive one of all. They eat anything that they can fit in their mouth (insects, crickets, centipedes, feeder fish,prawns, krill, beefheart, chickenheart, and Hikari Pellets too). Both the Scleropages jardinii and S. leichardtii are very hardy fish. If fed enough they will grow extremely fast. Most have learned to take frozen and dry foods. They require a large tank, similar to their Asian cousins.
Since they tend to eat all these kinds of food you should change 25% of the water at least once every week to two weeks. Large fish tend to produce high level nitrate and ammonia causing pH to fluctuate.
Bukit Indah
Johor Bahru
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Technorati Tags: Arowana, asian, australia, diet, fish, foods, frozen, hardy, jardini, Leichardtii, live, MALAYSIA, pearl, PH, spotted, tank, types, water
Posted on Sep 10, 2008 under ph fish |
I'm getting an API Freshwater Master Test Kit and it contains:-
pH (6.0 to 7.6) (250 tests)
High Range pH (7.4 to 8.8) (160 tests)
Ammonia (75 tests)
Nitrite (180 tests)
Nitrate (90 tests)
So I'm wanting to know how long it will last.
Well honestly, the PH doesn't matter much and messing with it only causes more problems. The idea that PH matters is pretty much a false one, unless it truly is out of wack (meaning it would not even measure on either of your kits). Fish are very tolerant of PH, and those numbers you may see on the profiles of fish are just an estimation of the PH in their habitat, not what they need to survive.
For Ammonia and nitrite you'll want to measure it every few days through the cycle to ensure no large spikes that will hurt the fish. As the cycle nears it's end you can start testing for nitrates, which the presense of is a sure sign your tank is completing the process.
For a healthy, cycled tank you really only need to measure ammonia and nitrite if there is a problem, or if you need to do some major tank work, like a full cleaning or a complete filter media replacement (neither are recommended), since these can deplete your bacteria.
It's a good idea to measure the nitrates before and after each water change at first, that way you know if they are rising faster than you are changing the water, and you can adjust your routine accordingly. Down the road, when you have more comfort in what's going on your tank, testing all these things will become something you do only once in a while, or if you notice something funny going on in the tank.
Posted on Sep 10, 2008 under ph fish |
POPPY HAS TWO BETA FISH FOR PETS. HE IS THERE TO FEED THEM, AND TEST THE WATER FOR CORRECT PH.
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Posted on Sep 09, 2008 under ph fish |
I just started this fishtank up about two weeks ago. Its going good so far. Im having trouble with the ph level spiking every couple of days and killing fish. But the fish act happy so im happy.
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Posted on Sep 09, 2008 under ph fish |
Put a wad of peat moss in your filter. It is a gradual, stable way to make your water more acidic. The peat has to be replaced almost weakly though. Any coral or other calcium based things will cause your water to become more basic, so avoid those.
Nosoop4u
Posted on Sep 08, 2008 under ph fish |
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Posted on Sep 08, 2008 under ph fish |
Can I use the same Ph+ that I use in my pool in a pond without hurting the fish? Do fish prefer a neutral Ph?
Keep your fish pond at approximately pH 7.5…both fish and plants are happy in that area. IF you need to raise the pH, use Baking Soda…dissolve in water, add slowly, do not raise the pH more than 0.2 units in a four hour period..could really hurt the fish. If you need to lower the pH, use Muriatic acid diluted in water, add slowly, just like you would the Baking soda…adjust over a period of time. IF you have exposed concrete in the pond, you will probably have to add acid occasionally. If not, you are over feeding. Change about 20% of the water per week to keep fish healthy. Always use dechlorinator chemicals when changing water. Good luck
Posted on Sep 07, 2008 under ph fish |
A movie made by me and my cousins (John Nick Harleigh Rachel) and Shawn, Cate, and my brother, James. It is I guess a horror spoof…
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