I just got a 30 gallon fish tank. Over night about 1 gallon of water (if not more) disappeared from the tank. I thought it might be evaporating but that seems like a lot over night. I have a wooden fish stand that only holds up the edges of the fish tank and the middle is not supported with a hollow space about 3 inches from the bottom of the aquarium glass. I thought maybe the water s leaking into this hollow space and not leaking out onto the ground yet. Should I support the bottom of the fish tank? Do I need to increase the temperature of the water to keep it from evaporating?

Unless your tank is very warm, has no cover and it under a fan I would say that more water lose that just evaporation. Check to be sure no water is leaking from the filter. If the outside of the filter housing is wet then you have a leak. If that from over the top of the filter you can adjust the position of the filter to prevent further leakage. If it's from anywhere along the filter you will need to replace the filter.

If you find no leak from the filter and no over flow from there, then I would assume you have a leak in the tank. Move it to a flat location, be sure the outside is perfectly dry, place the tank on some newspaper and carefully fill the tank so that you don't spill any water onto the paper. You should be able to identify a leak within an hour or so. As the tank is new,. I would return it for a replacement instead of attempting a repair.

As long as your stand supports the tank all the way around the edges a support under the glass is not needed.. The bottom glass rests on the bottom frame and is supported on all sides. Any attempt to support the bottom could cause uneven support and therefore cause a leak.

MM

It goes without saying that this reptile has a very good reaction and iguana adaptation to be able to withstand and survive in captivity. This would indicate that the iguana has a fabulous iguana adaptation record although that doesn’t mean that every single iguana or reptile known to man can be and quite often when other species of lizards are tried in captivity, they cease to thrive or survive. With that said however, lets take a look at one of the common and amazing iguana adaptations that are currently known and has published research information about.

The Green Iguana Adaptation

The green iguana is one of the most well researched and well-known iguanas to be held in captivity as well as in the wild. The green iguana adaptations are quite amazing in that there is nothing in the iguana that can maintain body temperature so in this manner, when the iguana is hot it must locate a cool area and rest there. Alternatively, because there is no internal regulator, the iguana adaptations must include the fact that when they need heat or light, they the iguana seeks out heat by basking in the hot sun or near a hot surface. It is in this manner that it is quite amazing that the green iguana adaptations must include the fact that it has to depend completely upon behavioral iguana adaptations to survive.

One of the most confused issues is the fact that the iguana adaptations do not include the under equipping of the iguana habitat because of the things that iguanas do not adapt well to is the lack of heat and light. These are two very essential elements to keeping the iguana in captivity and allowing it to achieve the proper iguana adaptations. It cannot be said enough how imperative proper lighting and heat elements are to the well being of any iguana whether in captivity or in the wild.

Some of the North American iguanas for example have demonstrated huge iguana adaptations by altering the diet that they consume. This reptile does best in tropical zones and North America doesn’t offer much in the way of tropical areas however there are a few. These iguanas actually eat ants and other small insects as opposed to healthy algae and other sustaining nutrient giving substances that they can locate in the wild in tropical zones. Many zoo iguanas are fed such things as fruit, flowers and plants and are not typically an eater of other creature however, a major telltale iguana adaptation is that the North American iguanas do eat ants and other small creatures of the like to sustain themselves.

Dane Stanton
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/understanding-iguana-adaptations-134912.html

It is impossible to eliminate algae altogether, and you should not be frustrated by the persistent nature of algae to accumulate. What you can do is control the condition under which plant life and fish thrives and algae does not. First, how much light are you allowing into your tank area? If you have light for more than ten hours a day, you are assisting algae grow in your tank, so don’t keep the lights on 24-7. You can purchase algae eating fish if that would fit with your aquarium’s motif. Some fish types that consume algae are three breeds of suckermouth catfish, the Ancistrus, Peckoltia, and Otocinlus. In addition, the Siamese Algae Eater, Crossocheilus siamensis is a great choice for controlling the algae in your tank. If you have a large tank, then the Common Plec is a good choice as well. But they are aggressive fish and do grow to huge size. Saltwater fish that are excellent for algae consumption are most tangs/surgeon fish, or any grazer.

The next step in controlling algae is to consistently change the water itself. By doing this, you are controlling the nutrient levels in the tank, which is crucial. Controlling nitrates, phosphates, and silicates are especially important. Another thing to look for is how you are controlling the iron in the tank. You can include different kinds of plants in your setup so they will compete for iron and other nutrients algae feeds off of in order to how a low opportunity for algae to survive.

Your first battle is likely to be with brown algae, or diatoms, because it appears first by siphoning silicon from the new aquarium tank itself, and unlike other stages of algae, it is unaffected by low lighting levels, so controlling light will not stop it from thriving. You can effectively combat it by changing water and gravel often. Diatoms thrive in conditions where phosphate is low and silicon is high, and this is generally what your scenario will be when you first start your aquarium. As time progresses and the environment changes, brown algae is usually replaced by green algae, because green algae thrives in a higher phosphate environment.

Green algae is apparently delicious and the best way to get rid of it is to bring in those algae eating catish and/or Siamese. Combined with keeping your aquarium only lit for a maximum of ten hours a day and simple manual removal of clumps of green algae, you can control what is typically the most usual and common algae growth in your aquarium.

Red Algae, or Brush, is a real problem because it is difficult to remove manually and most fish won’t eat it. Take care of this pesky nuisance by changing your water to RO/DI water and let your Siamese fish tackle it.

Blue Algae, or Cynobacteria, have photosynthesis, meaning the more light, the more it thrives. It is extremely harmful to both plants, by smothering, and fish, by poisoning. Treat your aquarium with erythromycin but be sure you know what you are doing, as you will need to check for ammonia and nitrate.

Richard Gilliland
http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/how-to-control-algae-in-your-aquarium-694858.html

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